fixed it guys. Turned out it was the earth. Its nice to have music back, even though it was nice hearing my exhaust for a week or so lol. Thanks for your help.,
yeh that was back in the day of anything cheep and chearful before i could spend money agen got full powerflow not decat to back box with dule exit hehe
All modern cars use a negative ground, that means the main - negative terminal on the battery is connected to the engine and the main chassis of the car body so to make a good earth for any electrical equipment just run the negative cable directly to metal work within the car that isnt painted.
Did you get a mazda to ISO cable converter so you do not have to cut the cables as the stereo should come with an ALPINE to ISO connector block.
That is the easiest way to connect a stereo and you do not have to chop wires
LINKY for one here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAZDA-CD-RADIO-WIRING-HARNESS-ISO-ADAPTOR-LEAD-CT20MZ01_W0QQitemZ350281401047QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Terminals_Cabling_ET?hash=item518e6602d7
Now if the ISO block does not work then there is a fault in the wiring somewhere,
get a multimeter/ volt meter and earth the negative onto the body somewhere, I usually jam mine into the rod that comes out to hold the door from opening too far or jam it in the top of the cigarette lighter as the metal bit you see inside at the top is earthed (the live is at the bottom in the middle)
You will see with the cables in the dashboard most come in pairs of the same colour usually green, grey or blue one will have a thin black line on it that will be the speaker cables and the black line one is the earth cable speaker.
That just leaves a few others
Next test the other cables left for ANY voltage without the keys in the ignition
Note which one has voltage - you have now found the main supply - this connects to yellow - permanent live / memory on any modern stereo
Next test the cables for voltage with the ignition lights on
Note the cable that now has voltage and this connects to red - ignition on your stereo, this stops you leaving the radio on and flattening the battery when you leave the car
this should leave a couple of cables untested.
Check these again with the ignition on and the lights on as the old clarion had a backlight that came on with the main lights when you find this one, remember NEVER to connect to this one again (if you do not do the light test you will think that is the earth cable but when you turn the lights on you will blow the right hand fuse for your lights)
That should leave you with the earth, if it still does not work then take a length of cable and a blue snap lock connector.
Take the ashtray out and then try and pop out the cigarette lighter (only if the lighter works) and connect to the cable with no voltage with the ignition on ( that will be the earth)
Still no luck, take some of the console near the gear stick out find some of the bare metal frame that holds the console, use a ring connector on the end of the cable, drill a hole and put a screw into the frame to screw down the ring connector below, that will give a great earth for a radio.
cool will do this later finaly my hids one come on as side lights
i had the mane beam frese but i put a resister in the spare h4 conecter witch solved this
@4a322a3459=Rainmaker:
@4a322a3459=Famine:
You can just yank it off with your bare hands - fingers under front and back and give it a quick hoik.
lmao Famine your from Rainy's school of mechanics aint ya..
**I got accused of being a hotrodder a couple of days ago by my drag-racing friends. I'd taken a lot of Red's interior apart to sort the dicky rear screen washer and drove her over there pretty bare (incidentally, the performance and handling were brilliant, though I'd left many of the interior push-pins in the wheel well and it sounded like being inside a cement mixer). Apparently taking things apart and intending - but never managing - to put them back together is a hotrodder trait :lol:
But yes, I just pry that off with my hands. Similarly, a while back when I was transporting a bath in Red (this actually happened), the chap loading it with me boinked the rearview mirror off. He was mortified until I whipped out a crosshead screwdriver I had in the car and reattached it in 20 seconds :lol:**
@d9af3c92a2=barrywhite21:
Thats the one i have i think, cant compare before and after on same car but like i said my old one started nowhere near as easy as this one does.
Yeah that is the one, made a real difference on start up and light out put.
:P
Shouldn't matter if it's odb 1 or 2. The engine isn't restricted by odb it's the wiring harness that is. The engine will connect up to either an odb1 or 2 harness as the sensors on it aren't limited to either.
Only time odb is considered is when you're sticking in a ZE or DE (2.5 V6) as the ecu's to run those need an odb 1 wiring harness to connect to.
You can run a ZE (from odb 1 car) on a K836 (1.8 V6 odb 2) ECU It'll run just not to it's full potential.
As long it's a 1.8 V6 you chucked in there the original ECU should run it fine.
Shouldn't matter if the donor car had air con either. I'm guessing yours doesn't, so unless you've swapped over all the air con equipment too you should be fine.
Only thing that would be related to air con on the donor engine would be the compressor and that should've been removed when dropped into your car, as it's not needed.
What problems are you having? It should've been a case of drop engine in, connect it up and fire it up using your original ECU.
You might have to swap your distributor over from the dead engine, wiring is slightly different from odb1 to odb2 but that should be it to get it to run.
Yea loads of places list the MX using H1's dunno why. deffo H4's though. Halfrauds are crap, hate that place, only go there if I have to.
Not sure if the fogs are H1 or H3.
I do know the side lights are 501's though!
What's the HID's like for those who've got them? Do they pass MOT's or d'you swap back to normal H4's. What's the beam cut off like?
Soz for the questions just been thinking about them for a while now I've got rid of that pesky dim dip.
If you put it back together with the original wiring and its knackered or you may need to get a new stalk unit on the steering column, they have a small circuit board and flush fit mini relays in there that can pack up, you get the voltage through there but not enough amps to power them which looks like everythings fine by voltmeter but they still dont work.
Also leave the wiring in there if it runs to the battery and wire something else up to the switch
Maybe a set of these
:lol: :lol:
@fd08582b43=Garfy1981:
did they not come with central locking then? ive always presumed they did??
Remote central locking and the standard central locking only has a solenoid on the passenger door