Rear brakes eating pads?



  • my rear brakes seem to be eating pads up i changed them about 6 months ago, i dont drive with the hand brake on i dont understand.

    just ordered new pads and discs from Probe Store. new ABS sensor next week too, which might solve it.

    the residue from the pads has started fooking up my wheels too. grrrrrrrrr!



  • You should put some sort of treament on your alloys, it really helps maintain them. My konigs were still in great condition after 2.5 years of dust n dirt, I put alot of that down to protective product - it was just like wax for wheels.

    Sounds like your handbrakes dragging, or your callipers are getting stuck, as happened to mine after a few months storage. Jack up the rear with the handbrake off and spin the back wheel. Remember to chock all other wheels, do it on a flat surface, and consider using a jack and an axle stand for back up.



  • I put brake repelant stuff on the wheels, but it was a while ago, i dont think its the hand brake, I get a grinding noise when braking, but it only comes in at when i get to 15mph through to 0mph. the same noise when i pulled the handbrake on slightly whist moving, as a 'test'.



  • Sounds like either your calipers are sticking or a brake hose on the rear has collapsed and not letting the fluid return.

    I would suggest jacking the wheels up and spinning them tosee if they are tight.. The noise might be your pads wornright down again.



  • its seems to be only the inside pad on the drivers side, the passengers side isnt too bad. I got new discs and pads through from mazdamxstore really quick delivery again!

    Any way im going to change the bits tomorrow, but i was wondering what would happen if i painted the edge of the discs with heat paint, would this stop them rusting? the pads dont contact all of the surface, so i have rusty lines running round the disc.



  • changed the discs and pads today, the drivers side inner pad was down to metal, the source of the noise. the problem is that the piston on the calliper, it was stuck out, so i had to make a little tool to push it back in, once it was moving though it freed up.

    also the heat paint bubbled up a bit, maybe it cant cope with high temperatures, i though it was like 500* paint though, never mind.

    So how can I sort my calliper piston? It appears that its not retracting, all the hoses look to be in good order, do i need to strip it and re build?



  • If you remove the sticking caliper from its mountings, roll the rubber seal back and dribble brake fluid under the seal. Use a pair of big grips to compress the caliper piston back in. Then get some one to slowly pump the brake pedal to push it back out. Dont let it go to far or it will pop straight out.

    Then repeat this process and eventually it will free, try not to use wd40 or such like as they tend to swell the rubber seal over time and make the problem worse.



  • cheers, I managed to push it in using a 12mm nut and bolt and some massive washers and then tightened it in using the old pad so the bolt didn't tear up the piston. the big grips wouldn't shift it!

    so just whip it off again and do this a few times then, (checks outside) its raining again damn! :cry:



  • 9 times out of 10 it works. The rear calipers get so little movement they seize up on all cars. Just keep working at it and it should free up. Good luck :P



  • little update on this fault, tried freeing it up by twisting it in and out, seemed fine, put it back together, then I pulled the hand brake on and it worked the wheel wouldn't turn, now though when I brake the pedal has got loads of travel, also the inner pad doesn't seem to be in contact with the disc.

    I'm thinking a new calliper and fluid, cant understand why the pedal would do that though as i haven't had any of the lines off, nor have i lost any fluid from the res.


Log in to reply
 

Looks like your connection to UK-MX3.COM was lost, please wait while we try to reconnect.