Wireless central locking, help!
I'm after a little help and advice again!
I bought a wireless central locking window closure from ebay and have having a few problems with it for various reasons.
Firstly, it would seem that the window closure switches in the mx are a bit random. nevertheless I have managed to modify the kit with a couple of hefty relays to (hopefully) get that part to work.
But I have two other problems:
1: the screw in the drivers side door inside the handle thing is really nastily rusted. Some muppet of a previous owner must have thought this was a good place to put a drink or something. I have tried soakiing it in WD40 for a couple of days but no joy. Any ideas?
2: The locking kit has two extra wires that it doesn't explain fully. Positive trigger and Negative trigger. These are along with all the usual ones (+ve supple, -ve supply, a couple for the actuator, indicator wires etc). If any one has any strong oppinions what these are for then I would be very thankful. I have heard several ideas from people who don't really have a clue, so please only if you have any firm ideas.
Also, on a side note, I was thinking about not connecting to the indicators at all, but trying to have all the front lights fading on and off in a sequence. (running down, headlights, sides, fogs) does anyone have any reccomendations how to do the fading on and off. I was thinking a big cap behind each light would do it but any better ideas?
deadlock last edited by
You can buy a set of screw extractors that should cope with the rusted screw. The screws used for the trim aren't hardened so it should come out easily. Noticed B&Q doing a set of own brand extractors for a few quid, they're always worth picking up anyway.
On the electrical side… sorry, no idea.
hypnoticstoat last edited by
It might sound a bit weird but instead of WD40 try Coke. That shit will eat through rust like no mans buisness (makes you wonder what its doing to your stomach :shock: )
Thanks for the advice you two.
In the end I decided to drill the b*stard out!
After that, I found that some muppet had disconnected the actuator in the drivers side door (I guess that explains why the locking the passenger door never locked the drivers!) Luckily that still works (tested it directly on the battery) so it's just a case of finding the right wires to connect various things to!
A note to all, I found that comparing the workshop manual to a '92 car, the wires are different colours and they go to different pins in the connectors!
Pain in the ass just to sell newer manuals to garages I guess!
If anyone has any help on the extra wires I would still be very appreciative!
ukmx3admin last edited by
You could try and get hold of Garfy on here, he's an electrician I think.
Right well, I've had a lot of sucess.
Last weekend I tried wiring the thing in again. I tested several wires for the passenger window and managed to blow the only 30 Amp fuse I had so after a day of trial and error, I decided "F*¿k it" and wired it up as I my latest theory understood. Went into halfords the next day to get more fuses and guess what…. My guess on the wiring the previous day was only bloody correct!
Couple more bits to hook up now (Lights, Trigger cables and boot release) then the thing will be fully working!
Note: the actuator I found unwired in my drivers side door is apparrently not standard. There should only be a lock position sensor in the drivers door and an actuator in the passengers door. Must be someone's failed attempt at wireless a long time ago!
I bought a boot release solenoid from ebay for £14 delivered and with a bit of very careful drilling, screwing and wiring I managed to connect it up.
(For the record, the two wires I was confused about originally are for this purpose, Positive trigger (positive side of the solenoid with negative to earth) and Negative trigger (negative side of the solenoid with other side to battery)). Obviously you only want to use one of the two setups mentioned.
All working well now and I think I may have sorted out how to get the lights to flash how I want them to. But that's staying a secret until it's sorted.
Again thanks for the help!
ukmx3admin last edited by
post some pics of how it all looks
or do a write up aswell and I will put it as a GUIDE.
Will get round to writing a guide for you when there's a nice day for me to take pics etc. (I'm sure you're aware by now that I'm not a great time-keeper so please don't hold your breath!)
Phobea last edited by
I've been curious about those alarms on eBay, what's the quality like?
If it's something I can fit in a day or two I might consider it myself, only wish you could get Thatcham Approved ones on there.
Mine wasn't an alarm, just central locking with closure. But it wasn't simple and you'd need to buy some extra bits:
extra actuator (MX-3 is only half-central locking as stock)
2X SPCO (Single Pole Change Over) 20A 12V relays for window closure
1X SPCO or SPNO (Normally Open) 20A 12V relay for boot release solenoid
1X Boot release solenoid
Don't go cheap on the solenoid and actuator. My actuator had been sitting in the door for god know how long after someone's failed attempt at it and now I need to grease the rods cos it's not strong enough. My solenoid was cheap and did not come with a tube for the cord (had to be mounted in the direction that it had to pull) and also isn't really strong enough.
When I stop the engine of the car, they're both strong enough to pop locks and boot but when it's sat for more than about 5 hours, they fail. (due to battery voltage settling back to ~12V I think)