Body swap



  • how hard would it be to transplant a body shell from 1 mx3 to another.. both same models/ built within couple months of each other? i have 2 mx3s.. one with good body, 1 with good everything else :/



  • Really you'd be best thinking of it as swapping the running gear/suspension etc to the good shell. You could do it in stages this way. It's certainly achievable in my opinion to an enthusiast. The most hassle is probably the engine/gearbox, which is really not bad if you have an engine crane.



  • i would agree with marc and have seen a project on the internet where the front struts and engine and gearbox were all unbolted and the front of the car lifted up, the shell, then the front axel, suspension and engine rolled out. the same for the rear axel and suspension.

    then move it all to the new shell. it's a job for an experienced person but i would think could be done, just ensure safety when lifting the current shell.



  • i was just hoping to transplant the back end of the shell :/



  • What is wrong with the one with the good body?? engine? gearbox?? etc etc

    Give us some more details and we can advise you on the best route to take.



  • drive shaft, the drivers side electric window off its runner, exhaust back box is wrecked, driving wise the gear box is a little tighter and sometimes can be a nuisance to stick it in 3rd, its not as responsive either.. it squeeks too but that might be the ball joint :/



  • The only body parts that are swappable are bumpers, front fenders, hood doors and hatch. The rest of the car is unibody and all welded together. Not impossible to do but not worth the time. Motor and tranny swap should only take 5 hours. Plus the exhaust would take about another 20 minutes to pull out and swap the whole thing over. I have had my car stipped right down to bare shell in four hours, just as long to put the whole thing back together.



  • @7b1750591c:

    drive shaft, the drivers side electric window off its runner, exhaust back box is wrecked, driving wise the gear box is a little tighter and sometimes can be a nuisance to stick it in 3rd, its not as responsive either.. it squeeks too but that might be the ball joint :/

    Thats about a 2 long days work, 4 if your not sure what your doing.

    Just swap the engine, gearbox, shafts and whichever lower arm you think the ball joint has gone on.

    I wouldn't mess around, i'd just borrow / hire an engine hoist and get a couple of mates roped in. With this kind of job its important to get it done quickly.

    –-

    Havent got time to step it all out but here is some...

    ... Basic Practical advice Advice:

    • remove the battery first.
    • then drain engine oil, water and gearbox oil before you start.
    • always use axle stands. You can hire them, borrow or buy. you need 2, make sure you work on level ground if you can, put the handbrake on hard, chock the back wheels front and back so there is no way in can move.
    • when working on the good body car put protective sheets,blankets over the wings/bumper so you don't damage the good body.
    • work on removing stuff from the good engine first, so you do a better job of removing the bad engine as you've had practice. This way you won't break important plugs, clips on the car with the good body as you will be re-using them.
    • as you remove the engine wires from the car with the good body, label them well using masking tape so you know where they go.
    • undo all hoses that join the engine to the car so that the only thing going between the engine and the car is the engine and gearbox mounts.
    • then undo the gearbox mounts so only the two engine mounts are holding it in.
    • removing the radiator helps too for added clearance.
    • get both cars to this stage
    • get a wooden pallet
    • now you can hire the engine hoist just for one day. lift the engine and gearbox you don't want out and on to the pallet (they are heavy so put it somewhere your not going to have to move it again, and preferably somewhere there is room to get a pallet truck in, incase you sell it and the delivery guy can get at it).
    • then lift the good engine and gearbox out of one car and in to the other in one go.
    • It can help to remove the axel stands and drop the front of the car down on a jack when using the hoist, with a couple of mates steadying the engine as you hoist so it does not hit anything.
    • old wagon straps are great to use with the hoist, tie one to each of the lifting eyes on the engine and then wrap one all the way round the gearbox once then up to the hoist (not just under it, allthe way round then back up). this will resist the engine from twisting or tilting, it makes it much more stable.
    • When you start hoisting the engine, go slowly and keep checking to make sure you have unplugged everything from the engine. ( I normally miss at least one hose or wire)
    • a full roll of cling film over the engine on the pallet will keep it in good condition, then a couple of those larger bin liners over the top.

    Hope that helps.

    Good luck


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