Missfire now won't start
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blackmexyv6
Kev,
thanks for that. I will be having a look at it on Saturday and will let you and all know how i get on.
Gaz :?
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Hi gazzoouk
another side effect of 'one' of my failed coils, was while trying to start while cranking, there was no evidence of her trying to fire, ie 'NO' occasional 'thum' in:- zze…zze...zze...thum...thum...zze...zze...zze...zze...thum...zze...zze...zze..
zze = sound of starter thum = a spark at a plug? strangely I only got an attempt to fire on 'releasing' the key from start position to run (ignition on)??? for about 3 seconds I got thum..thum........thum.thum...thum...........stop! My father (domestic electrician) commented something like "thats crossover current from one set of windings to other, either primary or secondary has failed/shorted/open circuit and other can't build up/maintain current in its windings or enough to maintain a regular spark output!" :( Dint mean much to me but on that occasion I aquired a coil unit, fitted, reset ecu, linked TEN and GND, started, ran til fan cut in, removed link, test drove for 10 miles, sorted ! :P (for about a year til hall/IG unit failed?)
Its your initial statement about "80miles or so in RAIN" that rings true with me! electrics and water? mmm :?
If ya do take dizzy off completely? and it all looks like it should under cap etc? try sticking the whole thing in oven at 80. oC for ten mins or so (no higher or longer tho) get ya gloves on and re fit it sharpish and see if itll run? it might need some heat into it? NO? try opposite end of temp test? in freezer for a hour? :shock:
Is the bonnet nose to bumper upper lip garnish/seal (20mm wide rubber strip that follows bonnet nose contour) intact on yr vehicle???, rain+80mph air pressure+ a failing seal? directly backwards from that is dizzy to center right and alternator to lower left and frnt 3 bank of plugs?
When ya did LED, did ya also link TEN and GND at same time? if ya just jumped TEN and GND with LED! it prob would just light up and stay on????
Pull codes its: 'LED+' lead in B+ (battery12 v) , 'LED-' lead in FEN (fault engine)
then on yr jumper wire its one/any end in 'TEN' (test engine) and tuther end in GND (ground/earth) all tiny sockets in 'DIAGNOSTIC' box! turn key to on (dont try to start) LED should light almost straight away for approx 4 secs then either go out (no codes) or flash to display codes eg.. dar...dit (11) or/and.. dar...dit...dit...dit...dit (14) or/and.. dar...dar...dit (21) etc
if there are code/codes they run a sequence and then repeat anyway! time for a marker pen and paper! I did capital 'I' for long flash and lower case 'i' for short flash for about page and a half?? space em out on page and youll soon see codes and the repeat sequence???? tint easy but worthit if ya do have codes?
(NEVER 'DRIVE' WITH JUMPER AND LED IN DIGNOSTIC BOX!!!) safest way is "lid on nothing in it, bonnet shut no tools under it!) before a drive!I hope ya not daunted gazzoouk Ive gleened all my knowledge off UK-MX3
theyre a great bunch on here X all infos here ,somewhere and its free :lol: feel for ya and hope ya back 'in love' wi ya mexy soon I will log in tomoz for a peek :D kev b
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Kev and all
I got hold of a multimeter to test the dizzy;
primary winding resistance should be @20 oC (not today tho!) between the first two pins on the 3 pin dizzy connection (1st is pin closest to ya)
0.49 - 0.73 ohms ? I Measured 0.50 ohms.For secondary, (remove dizzy cap to expose coil post) put a meter between pin 1 again and the recently exposed coil post should be 21000 - 31000 ohms
(21k ohms - 31k ohms dependent on meter range)I measured 0.600 ohms.
would this be the problem? I still seem to be getting a spark as i pulled a plug lead and fitted a spare plug and got the Mrs to crank the engine whilst i checked for a spark and it seemed fine.
Also whilst i had the dizzy apart i cleaned and dried the points etc. I checked all hoses for signs of splits or leaks and again all appear fine. I removed all spark plugs and cleaned them. I did not that all were wet will fuel.
I recharged the battery re-fitted and attached a booster pack that i have borrowed (as this is how the Green flag chap got it going) but it just didn't want to start.
I re-did the LED test and again the LED just stays illuminated.
I am really getting p#@@ed off with this as it ran so well prior to this and to top it all it's just started snowing.
HELP
Gaz
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try leaving your plugs out over night as i suggested earlier, incase you have flooded it. Hair dryer them in the morning too.
If your plugs were wet with fuel it would seem so.
What is the voltage of your battery?
Any signs of head gasket gone?
When you said you dried the points, WHY WERE THEY WET????
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Hi gazzoouk Is the reading of 0.600 ohms for the primary? ie the first two pins in the coil (3pin female) socket on dizzy?
If 'yes' then that is within spec and would indicate that the switching (primary) windings are ok and if you say you are receiving a spark at a 'spare' plug that you put in the end of a lead! (which lead? I always use No 1, back left, as its the longest and has the most resistance of the six leads), then your secondary (spark producing windings) look to be ok if its producing a strong 'royal blue' spark able to jump a gap of 10mm or so?
I dont bother with a plug in lead when test cranking, if coil's outputting corrctly it should still produce a sprark capable or bridging the gap from inside lead shroud to metal earth on engine somewhere?
It might appear, thin, spidery and yellow but if its about a inch long or so its got some energy in it :( (enough to cause heart rythm probs if ya get twanged by it!!! so take care, insulated pliers and rubber gloves ! bettr still ,hands off! )
Also ya mention plugs wet? they will get sloshed with petrol every time ya crank to test spark! usually leading to wetting/flooding!
Try this; time allowing? remove all plugs, clean and dry em, go under rear seat cushion and under a wad of felt in center, youll find a white 3or4? pin connector, unplug it (fuel pump and guage sender),
next day unplug 3 pin connector at coil and check nothing near/in plug holes, crank engine for 5 seconds twice with a gap of about 10 secs between cranks, ( this is to evacuate any fuel/ vapour in cylinders, injectors will still inject fuel until fuel line pressure falls to zero which it should do cos u have dissconnected pump?)
Now put ya plugs back in to proper torque, connect ya leads in correct order? reconnect ya dizzy 3 pin plug, but DON'T connect 3pin under back seat!!! now crank engine as before (above) if ya lucky and ya plugs are clean and dry you might get a couple of thum…thum.........thums durin cranking? (firing attempts) if none at all? re check for spark at 'No1' ?
if it does try to fire, crank again to confirm and to clear cylinders, switch off and reconnect plug ('clicks' when done right?) under seat cusion.
Now fingers crossed, crank again, clutch depressed! (which you should always do anyway :? ) dont touch throttle either! even if it fires? dont rev!!! youll want to :x let it do its own thing til warm or guage starts to show, then by hand under bonnet give throttle a prod see what it does?
If revs bare no ressemblence to throttle inputs or theres a delay in inputs and response but revs rise smoothly after a certain rpm, Id still take a stab at hall trigger/IG unit???
Could also be TPS 'throttle position switch' tho? if it starts that is? (do a search for a link on uk -mx3 for 'TPS' set up).
If it still fails to start could still be hall/IG unit, and also CPS 'crank position sensor' (down by crank pulley/sump/dipstick)
Its horrible gazzoouk all this checkin! I really feel for ya! but its the only way to eliminate stuff by checking or swapping for 'known good'. I actually bought a working second mx3 as a scrapper for parts! its been best £150 ive ever spent? got most of that back in spares and ebay sales too :P
Not what ya want to hear tho I bet :x
Still concerns me with LED staying on??? ya sure yr jumping 'FOUR' pins in total?
B+ to FEN (with led) pos leg of led in B+?
TEN to GND (peice of wire) ?
Just checking fella x
L8r kev b
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Mmm? admin, good question?
guessin gazzoouk just means 'dried points' as a generalisation? as i told him to dry out/stick in oven?
unless the 'points' (vanes and sensors) were indeed wet??? which would suggest either a broken or missing dizzy cap seal/ O ring??? and certainly cause missfire/coil short?
The LED is a mystery too? ECU fault?
Bedtime for me at mo!
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check spark plugs and leads.maybe air filter is damp?
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