Troublesome starting



  • I have problems getting the engine to fire first time, I have to crank for 5 seconds before anything happens. I will try and get a video tomorrow but do you have any ideas? If I stop and start after an hour its fine but after that and overnight it takes longer. Engine runs fine otherwise.



  • Could be sticky solenoid on the starter motor, weak battery or corroded cables, also if the oil has gone thick becuase of the colder weather that will sometimes do it.



  • Grrrr, it's starting fine at the moment. Bear with me i'm sure it wil reappear!



  • It still happens now and then but it starts, goes and stops, life's too short to worry so I've decided to live with it!



  • Just a quick thing. When you turn on the ignition, do you turn it straight to 'start'?. if so it might not be giving the fuel system time to pressurise, and with the starter motor pulling a lot of power, it may be taking a few seconds for the fuel pressure to build.

    It may also be worth checking the flexi hose from the air flow meter next to the air filter to the throttle body. Any leaks due to cracks or loose jubilee clips could give you a slightly lean mixture… changes in the weather may be masking it at the moment.

    Good luck though!



  • Hi ! I also have this phenomina/prob? Generaly when cold, starts (always) anywhere between 3 to 5 seconds of churnin!? When warm and stopped, depending on duration in restarting time, sometimes starts on the key other times after say an hour, the cranking time increases? always under 6 secs tho, every time! Think 'ECU' when cranking recieves signals from one of two sources, crank sensor ('NE2' down by bottom end of dipstick) and the 'G' CP Sensor located in the dizzy body? which detects No1 piston coming up to TDC?
    I know that electrical 'resistance' changes with temp? do these changes in the sensors affect starting times? All mine that i can put a meter on check out ok on resistance readings! could be cylinder compression? again mine have been checked?, they are down on new but all within 10% of 'new' readings. (mines done 107,000mls) Wish i could get mine to start on the key? might just be a character flaw with v6 MX3s? Loads of inputs to 'ECU' durin crankin.??? hope ive helped a wee? if ya find owt out? plse let me know too! :P .
    Try http://homepage.ntlworld.com/mx6-uk/malf/malfcode.htm it helped me wi my 17mnth ordeal :( kev PS i always depress clutch when starting, you're not turning primary shaft over in gearbox, immersed in all that thick cold oil!



  • I used to have a Morris Marina, Carb and points ignition. That would fire up straight away.

    Fuel injected cars with ECU's have many inputs. It may be that its set up so that it needs to know a lot of info before it fires the engine up.

    Spinning over for a couple of seconds to build oil pressure before firing might be better for the engine.

    Mine takes about 2-3 seconds every time. so did my other MX3 and my 1.5 323f.



  • I had the same issue, got an earthing kit and it starts perfect, i also wired my battery (a new botsch one) which improved it even more, during its final days it was leaping to life everytime.



  • Hi fellas, i did an'earthing' mod, even going as far as to replace all factory earths with 8mm diameter cables and soldering on eyelets (not crimping!). I also ran a circuit earth round the entire enginebay attaching a soldered on eyelet to every lump of metal, (resistance/ zero voltage checking as i went!) returning it back to bat neg terminal/chassis! not really to speed up starting times but to rectify my massive headache as posted 5 11 12? has it made a difference? well the starting never sounds labored or rough, its just slow to start? and no body can tell me its a 'bad earth'! :) . Think im gunna check my timing? but need pic of label attached to diagnostic lid? as mine gone, ON BOTH CARS! anyone help??


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