KLZE = HEAD GASKET BLOWN
PERFECT TIMING - NUFF SAID - RESPECK BROTHERS :rimshot:
I suppose the upside is that I might be able to make a HOW TO… on it now
Garfy1981 last edited by
Thats bad luck!. I am feeling a engine rebuild on mine next year.
Although the sweet ze takes a beating from me and been faultless.
I'm just doing it to update the valve train.
Struth. That doesn't happen too often! Run out of coolant? Waterpump die?
youdirtyfox last edited by
Ooor fook not what you need :( hadn't you been loosing water for a while now?
I have had mysterious vanishing water from the system since day 1,
its been a little amount now and again and then started to get worse over christmas, now that i have replced most of the water hoses and replaced all the clips with stainless jubilee clips
I have now found the water is disappearing much faster and the engine is permanently running hot with the fans on and the water system is pressurising insanely but when you stall it or turn the engine off the pressure just drops off quickly but then restarting, the engine hydraulics and struggles to turn over until the water has purged from the system and sometimes it will not restart unless left alone for a while
If starting from cold you see small bubbles continuously coming from the water system and this is causing it to pressurise and when stopped the water goes back into a cylinder, this is why I have obviously had tps problems as that is the highest point on the water system and its just instantly filling with air, it could also explain the massive hesatation when cold if I boot it
hmm unlucky. Compression tested it yet? Ah well, it'll run better than ever when it's replaced :)
Cant be botherdd with compression test. just going to do the lot in one hit.
Good lad :) When I first got my ZE it was full of water. That sucked. Have to say I loved having that engine in bits. Put some DE springs and retainers in it whilst the heads are off. If you fancy it check out the guide for cleaning the ports up on xtremethings.com
Lori Carlyle last edited by
I hate to say, and I really hope you do see the funny side of this statement.
You and water aren't really getting on at the moment are you?
joking aside, and in all seriousness.. damn.
Why not swap Equip shells while your at it?
Lol lori i work on yachts too so my life is 100% water based (bit like ky jelly hahaha)
As for swapping shells :imout:
Marco. i will track down some de springs as if i remember from stripping a k8 you need to remove the cams to get the heads off. just got a head gasket kitfor £75 which was a bargain. need to source some head bolts and they are off next thursday
A couple bits of advice.
If you think its hydraulicing do not even try to start it as you might damage a valve and will put pressure on the crank and can damage that too.
Don't get a cheap headgasket ie ebay or probestore, get a PAYEN gasket if you can you won't regret it. Much better quality.
Heres a very rough non mx-3 specific look at the job:
- flush out the rad and block before you start easier to do at the start
- Cambelt off
- Intake Mani off
- Rocker covers off
- Cams out, on most cars you remove cam pullys first
- Exhaust Mani off
- Make sure nothing is attatched to the heads
- Head bolts out (you have to follow the pattern for removal found in the manual)
- strip heads down
- Send heads off to get checked to see if they need skimmed and for pressure testing
- remove old head gasket
- clean any old gasket off the block
and your ready to rebuild
Follow the manual, you need a torque wrench (avoid the cheap ones, halfords pro range are cheap and pretty good) and either an air gun (I know its a bad habit to use a gun for this but go into any garage and they will just set the torque where it needs to be and wizz them up) or I prefer a very long breaker bar to tighten the head bolts. Some cars head bolts are stretch bolts and may need replacing if they are not in tolarence.
Some head gaskets want you to part tighten the head bolts then loosen, then tighten again.
Also I know this is an old skool tim and a royal pain in the ass on a modern engine, but I like to go back after a month and nip them up. On some cars though (like mx-3) its really not worth the hassle.
Thanks Daryl, have most in hand, will do about the head bolts retighten anyway as its got to be done on all mazda 1.6/1.8 4 pot engines anyway
Head gasket is on its way anyway and I have a new cambelt to whack on as well, I may even go water pump too just to be sure
Where can i find DE valve springs in 3 days ???
The cambelt and waterpump have 100% done under 5000 miles before it came to you, as I changed before I fitted the engine and I never did 5000 miles on it.
So if you do change em for peace of mind don't throw em away.
They will point you at someone who can help, only heard good things about their valvesprings. They have resellers all over the place.
Might be worth doing the valvestem seals as I never bothered going that far, so I know they are the original ones.
Also don't forget if you get DE springs you need DE retainers too not just the spring.
Also i'm pretty sure the same goes for the interprep springs, I think you need the DE retainers for them too.
Any links to somewhere to buy them or just standard mazda ones are fine
12x valve springs
12x retainers (the circle with the hole)
12x collets (the semi circular locks that lock into the valve stem)
I actually have 12x exhaust ZE springs which are the same as DE springs. However I don't have the retainers and collets as I used them on my interprep springs.
postage will slow it down but:
Garfy1981 last edited by
above link is £43.00 inc shipping. I ordered a set a few days ago weirdly.
How much did you pay for your interprep springs marco?
And where did you buy them from?
Did you use the DE intake retainers and collets?
But used the ZE exhaust retainers as they are the same as the DE ones?