Is it the immobilier?

  • just been reading this thread,its the same kind of problem im having
    sent dizzy away to get it refurbished,as i had lost spark completely,got it back and i had a spark again,but the engine would start for about 2 secs then dead,so i tried all the things in the above thread,bridged fuel relay,and constant live to fuel pump,but with a tester connected to punp i could see it wasnt losing its power,and the engine would start stright away again,after it cuts out,so theres fuel there,but if i change the ecu,then i have to change the keys and ignition barrel etc,right? problem is i cant take it to another garage or mazda dealers.although mazda say they can help,they need the whole car,thing is this 1.8 v6 mx-3 is a hybrid! it has been a donor car,as it was being scraped for an escort xr3i and its not complete enough ywt to move,and we need it running to test if it drives straight as all the running gear has been fitted into the escort what i want to know is how do i go about getting rid of the immobiliser?just spent over 200 on dizzy so dont want to waste more money on anothe ecu,incase thats not the problem either,can it be bypassed?removed,swithced off etc? i know that info would not be a good idea to post so please private message me any help in leicester if anyones nearby, and cares to help or come have a look at our project! (sacrilidge i hear some say? :p)

  • Hiya, if its starting then dying I would suspect either a sensor going up the creek


    Have you checked the plastic induction pipe for splits as that can do the same or the mass airflow sensor on there as its starting and usually they die straight after starting thats probably a massive air leak into the inlet manifold as the ecu will shut the engine down because its flooded with air

    Think you really need to pull some codes from the ecu

  • thers no codes to pull its not registered anything? bought another car today running so going to try and take that to dealers to get immobiliser removed and then swap that loom into ours,anyne know where to take it,has anyone taken theres to get alarm or mmobliser removed?

  • to remove immobiliser is easy to do or if you have remote central locking you can keep it as an alarm

    Find the unit - usually fitted under the dashboard in front of the gear stick

    Find out what make and model number it is

    go on google and type it in and find wiring diagram

    Then find the wires that immobilise the car

    usually fuel pump and ignition are disabled

    cut those wires and then isolate the ones from the unit

    just join the wires together that go to the pump or ignition

    That will be it cut out of the system and you can keep your alarm and remote central locking working with it

  • well i cant seem to find a diagram for the ecu anywhere,it is a k861 18 881a by denso,if thats the model number?
    is anyone in touch with member = kami_no_michi ? as he had his immobiliser removed by sandicliffe? so maybe i can get them to help with mine?

  • You dont need an ecu diagram

    You need the diagram, of the immobiliser and how to fit it, then,just cut and short thr eires that immobilise it

  • oic, i thogut the immobiliser was inside the ecu i been wasting all day looking for diagram to me ecu! doh! :)

  • @20c81be20c=weldabody:

    oic, i thogut the immobiliser was inside the ecu i been wasting all day looking for diagram to me ecu! doh! :)

    YUP lol

    the ecu is under the panel on the center console at the bottom of the foot well

    usually they fit the black immobiliser box under the center console itself in front of the gear stick pretty much underneath the ashtray or it could be under the bonnet somewhere but usually decent ones are inside

    you then need to find make and model of the immobiliser and then find the wiring diagram out there

    read the diagram it will show you the bits to cut and add new parts too

    basically where the diagram tells you to cut, you find those wires and just rejoin them and thats it done then, if it does central locking, alarm etc you can leave it in to use as an alarm

    This is a diagram I found on the net of a average price alarm immobiliser you will see most of it is for central locking, lights etc

    shows you the wire to cut in your car and how to join the immobiliser up with the colour wires

    If this particular one was in your car you would chase the yellow wire to the ignition
    Find the relay it attaches to and the 2 pins opposite on the underside of the relay you would have to disconnect from the relay and just join together

    That would then make the engine live to start with out the remote fob

    It will be pretty much the same in your car except it may also disconnect the fuel pump - you just need to find the make and lmodel of it first

  • dj thanks for all your help so far matey, you must b getting sick of me by now! :) i got the little black box,its got kb94 675g2 at top.underneath that line it has temic 3x3998 so i tak eit temic is the make and te kb94 675g2 would be the model? i might sound thick thats cuz i am,i know bugger all,its my dads project hes working on but he does not know how to use a pc,so im trying to figure all this stuff out for him,but it aint easy, so i do appreciate your help

  • This is the one then, its a mazda dealer fitted immobiliser, if you can find a haynes manual for a ford probe they fit them on there and there is a guide on how to remove etc

    They rarely go wrong, I am guessing you have a chipped key for the ignition or the car used to have a chipped key and someone has put the chip in the console around the steering wheel somewhere and it may not be close enough, it maybe that.

    They are hard to bridge - total removal is only real option with mazda factory one

  • i got my immobiliser completely removed cus i smashed the fob :( but i sent you a msg and i will see if my mate still works there. so give me your name and if she still does i will let her know your comming down and see if she can sort it out for you :)


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