Dizzy cap and rotor arm



  • I decided to finally have a look at my dizzy cap and rotor arm today. there is 2 very small cracks in the dizzy cap where it screws on to the actual distributor. would this be causing my hesitation problem. it is nowhere near the electrodes but could it still be causing the car to discharge under load. going down hill there is no hesitation (at full throttle) but going up hil the hesitation is there (at full throttle). there was alot of build up on the inside of the cap and the rotor arm which i have cleand up as much as i can (the metal pieces inside were corroding away as i was cleaning). I have looked on fordprobestore and it looks like i have the wrong dizzy cap on there anyway. Mine is completely flat without that little bulge in it?

    any advice is welcome.

    Am I right in thinking that if i was to buy a new cap and rotor arm it will also fit the KLDE engine when i pick it up or is my car too old. I have a '93 car



  • I have a brand new dizzy and rotor without the bulge here if you want them £20 posted, cracks could be the cause of it leaking and worth checking further
    Think the difference between the 2 dizzies is firing orders and the old distributer is a different fitting :wink:
    If the KLDE is post 93 they wont fit on it



  • i will speak to the misses as it will be her money lol. she finishes work at 4 so i will let you know shortly after then. if the firing order is different then i guess i must have the right one lol.

    will let you know i a min ;) PM me your paypal again mate



  • how could i find out if that is the cause without sticking my finger on the crack and getting a belt pmsl (no sexual pun intended ;))



  • its a bit tricky that, you can usually see it at night with dodgy cables as they all spark but caps if in doubt replace it really, I had one looked fine and replaced and it sorted it out :wink:



  • The choice of disty is defined by the ECU and wiring harness, not the engine. Therefore if you change to a DE and run the same wiring harness, disty and k8 ecu then it will run no matter what year the DE is. IIRC however if you try to use the DE ECU (KL01/2?) then you may need to concern yourself with the year of the donor.

    Using the disty from the donor car is one of the most common reasons for a no start ZE/DE swap. So in short, I would just change it, and not worry ahead about that, you'll probably run the same disty as your k8.



  • thanks marco that really helps :) i can almost guarantee that it wont start anyway as it is me doing the swap and nothing is ever easy lol. would the probes engine mounts fit the mx3 engine bay?



  • The front mount fits if you widen the holes a few mm on the mx3 xmember.
    The rear is nothing like ours, it's a poorer design that contributes to their gearbags exploding easier

    The sides can't remember. Just use the mx3 mounts. The timing belt side IIRC needs the whole mount swapped, even though the part bolted to the engine looks similar. The easiest thing to do is just use the k8 box. 3 out of 4 mounts are attached to the gearbox.

    I recommend filling your mounts with polyurethane, or windscreen glue if you can't get that.



  • @459126527b=Marco:

    I recommend filling your mounts with polyurethane, or windscreen glue if you can't get that.

    A tube of this will do all of them, but will take a week to set but it sets at the same strength as the rubber in the mount, you wont have any probs with them after that, especially if you see where the rear one is

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sikaflex-291i-Marine-Sealant-100ml-BLACK-/260828043677?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item3cba90199d


Log in to reply
 

Looks like your connection to UK-MX3.COM was lost, please wait while we try to reconnect.