Something Wrong with fuel inj.



  • Hi All,

    After a bit of diagnosis work (read driving it around and trying to reproduce) there is definately rev ranges in 1st 2nd and to a degree 3rd where the fuel injection gets all lumpy and the car starts kangarooing. This is generally in the low rev range of the gear (so 1000rpm in 1st etc) I've also noticed pulling away sometimes in 1st it feels like the revs drop too low based on the amount of gas (but this could equally be me just getting my timings wrong).

    It feels like its getting worse, although I don't know if this is the case or I'm just being sensitive to it! Its occasionally stalling on idle too.

    Bear in mind the car does need a service (I'm getting quotes and trying to sort this in the best/most economical way.

    So, possible problems I've identified (please add to list):

    Dirty Fuel Filter
    Fuel Supply/Pump problem
    Dirty/Blocked/Sticking Injector
    Faulty O2 Sensor

    Any other things I've missed?


  • administrators

    Have you checked the spark plugs and HT leads yet?

    Does it sound like its miss firing at all??

    @d15e1f3047=Pheo:

    I've also noticed pulling away sometimes in 1st it feels like the revs drop too low based on the amount of gas (but this could equally be me just getting my timings wrong)

    Remember that when you press the accelerator you are actually controling the AIR input, the ECU then decides how much fuel… Have you checked the A/F Meter or the Throttle Body??? Possible loose connection!

    One last thing, have you done a CEL Code Check?

    Jono



  • Someone else has suggested the throttle body. (I think). Have not checked the sparks yet. However I was looking out for flat spots yesterday deliberately as they could be related, and apart from a very very slight blip in third, which was barely noticable, I didn't notice anything, so I don't think its miss firing.

    CDEL Codes presumably you mean the ECU Fault codes. No I haven#'t but I was trying to work out how last night (and failed…)


  • administrators

    To check the fault codes you need a 12 Volt Light (Or LED)

    Make sure the ignition is off (take the key out if you have to! lol)

    In the Engine Bay behind the battery is the diagnostic box, open this up and connect the light (or led) between the connectors that say FEN & B+ you will then need to jumper with some wire TEN & GND

    Now turn the ignition to the ON position (stage 2) BUT DO NOT START THE CAR!!!!

    The light should come on for a few secs then go out, i understand that this means there are no codes stored!

    If it flashes then record how many!

    Jono



  • Will do that tonight, thanks (providing I can find my 12v LEDs).


  • administrators

    Oh btw, put the positive lead or leg on the B+ connector

    Jono



  • Full Service booked for tomorrow. Thanks for your help Jono. I'll check the codes tonight as well and hopefully it'll just show up as a dodgy sensor (which I could ask them to replace).


  • administrators

    Kool, they should be able to pick it up during the service!

    Jono



  • Cars in for a service now, they've identified the following:

    Carbon on Distributor Cap
    Slight misfire on idle
    Accessory Belt perished.

    Few other bits that are unrelated as well.

    They're going to change the plugs and see how we go, also clean the carbon on the distributor cap as well as obviously changing the oil and fuel filter and see if it improves things.

    One question I do have is how hard is it to replace the accessory belts yourself? Seeming as they want £100 for it, which seems a bit dear as I can get the belts for about £20!


  • administrators

    @9302068a18=Pheo:

    One question I do have is how hard is it to replace the accessory belts yourself? Seeming as they want £100 for it, which seems a bit dear as I can get the belts for about £20!

    Look down the left side of the engine, the 2 belts are down there & are a pain in the ass to change with the engine in the car! So £100 is prolly about right.

    That carbon could be part of your your problem!!

    Did you try the ECU Code check?

    Jono



  • @08de627180=jono:

    @08de627180=Pheo:

    One question I do have is how hard is it to replace the accessory belts yourself? Seeming as they want £100 for it, which seems a bit dear as I can get the belts for about £20!

    Look down the left side of the engine, the 2 belts are down there & are a pain in the ass to change with the engine in the car! So £100 is prolly about right.

    That carbon could be part of your your problem!!

    Did you try the ECU Code check?

    Jono

    Hi Jono,

    I've not done it yet, and the service center I'm using have not got an ECU code reader; so I'm likely not to let them do any additional work yet, and read the ECU codes myself tonight, providing the plugs etc don't solve the problem (I didn't have time last night, but its definately a priority).

    Also if the carbon is the problem, I can get a new distro cap for about £20; and as this is right at the front of the engine, I'm presuming its easy to fit?

    Will phone my mechanic and ask him for a quote on the belts; he's normally a bit cheaper.



  • Right, another call back from the garage. Car is ready and they think they know what the problem is - A split in the air intake meaning the engine couldn't control the mixture properly/take in the right temperate air!

    So, much cheaper! They've taped it for now, I'm probably going to replace it myself as its not hard.

    Also had a quote from my mechanic for fitting the belts for labour - £55. Belt kit is £14 from FordProbeStore - so providing the pulley's don't need doing, shouldn't be too expensive.

    Oh and thankyou for all your help Jono! Much appreciated! I do have one more question for you - how much did your black diamonds cost?


  • administrators

    Ah, yes, that would make sense.. the vacuum system would have been messed up & the A/F meter would have been giving incorrect readings.

    You might want to think about replacing that pipe with some ally pipes, they look much better and dont crack! lol

    I plan on doing that myself in a week or so :D

    Disty cap is easy, only 3 screws then pull it off, but I recommend changing the 'O' ring :)

    I actually swapped my entire disty over this morning, only took me 15 mins!

    My disks and pads cost around £300 in total.

    Happy to have been some help :P

    Jono



  • Bloody hell £300! Better be good!

    Mind you, mine feel alot better with new fluid, you notice it when you stamp on them! Thinking about getting grooved disks and EBC Greens, but as I've just spent a load of money on the service it might take a while!

    I agree about the pipe - Mazda want £100 odd for it. They can go swivel!

    RE the disty; it seems to be performing fine, but as a new one is only £20 its tempting to do it anyway (I'm also pleased they noticed it; a sign they did the service properly!)


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