Battery light



  • My battery light comes on when the engine goes above 1500rpm also the lights get brighter, im reading an increase in voltage in the system and i have had smoke comming out the battery.
    Is this the end of my halfords battery or is it the alternator?
    He did get a tad wet at jap show today.



  • check the voltage coming out of the alternator



  • Sounds like the rectifier on the alternator has gone and the voltage has gone haywire, its probably new alternator time and if you get smoke from the battery

    DONT USE IT !!!
    if it explodes then that will cause major damage under the bonnet

    Voltage meter on the battery, should say 11-12v
    start engine should read around 14v
    rev it, if it goes nuts its the alternator if it stays steady
    check the contacts on the battery are secure



  • @0f7c208393=djmarcopolo:

    Sounds like the rectifier on the alternator has gone and the voltage has gone haywire, its probably new alternator time and if you get smoke from the battery

    DONT USE IT !!!
    if it explodes then that will cause major damage under the bonnet

    Voltage meter on the battery, should say 11-12v
    start engine should read around 14v
    rev it, if it goes nuts its the alternator if it stays steady
    check the contacts on the battery are secure

    it goes nuts! reading 14v + when i rev it, the stereo cuts out and so does the amp in the boot from overload, just looked at alternators on ebay, do you know where to get one from cheeper than £100?



  • advertise on here someone might have one, or try and find a rectifier thats the black unit on the alternator that sorts the current and keeps it at a max of 14.1v anything else makes it go nuts

    I am guessing its on a V6 because they are usually around the £250 tag
    A 1.6 one is around half that price

    Best deal I can find is this at £39 on ebay but it is used and looks it too
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mazda-MX6-MX-6-Mk2-Alternator-114ST13-DJAB061R-/350388216954?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5194c3e47a

    OR bid on this it finishes tomorrow
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Alternator-Mazda-Mx6-Ford-Probe-Xedos-626-/280566752880?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415314e670

    BEST DEALS ON A RECON

    UK - £115
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAZDA-626-MX3-MX6-V6-ALTERNATOR-B205-/190449699240?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c57afc9a8

    From the USA inc P&P - £75 but may take 2 weeks
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-01-FORD-PROBE-MAZDA-626-MX3-MX6-ALTERNATOR-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a5e470711QQitemZ250689816337QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories



  • it is a 1.8 v6, im under the understanding the alternators for a mx6 put out more amps (120A apposed too 90A) am i correct



  • Should be fine with the output into the battery, it will probably put less strain on the alternator when you have lights etc on with the higher amperage out



  • Think they have a differnt plug for them aswell could be wrong though



  • Will have to check again but I think I listed the MX6 because it has the same part number as the probe MX3 and 626 so should be the same



  • just been having a look and it does seem like a pig to get at and get out, im not looking forward to doing this :(



  • Just to add to this thread. My battery light is constantly on. Does this mean my alternator is screwed?



  • or because the belt is slipping lots and not charging the battery?!
    have you checked out all the alt. connections making sure there
    secure and the fuses?

    Id get a multimeter on the alt. and batt. and see what there putting out,
    and replace the belt before handing over the cash for a new one



  • @14d855a9f6=youdirtyfox:

    or because the belt is slipping lots and not charging the battery?!
    have you checked out all the alt. connections making sure there
    secure and the fuses?

    Id get a multimeter on the alt. and batt. and see what there putting out,
    and replace the belt before handing over the cash for a new one

    Battery light has been on since I have had the car (over a year now) and I have only just replaced the battery last week (the old one was in a very poor state- white furryness all over, general leakyness). I'm thinking that if the alternator was dodgey this battery would have given up a LONG time ago, the belt does screech when the weather is cold (so, all the time lol).

    The car does have an earthing kit (not done by me) so I'm thinking that someone may have put a wire somewhere they shouldn't have (like it says in the manual).



  • If yours has been working fine and its still on I am guessing it has a dodgy connection somewhere, if you have replaced the battery and it starts everyday then I guess its fine and the alternator is working ok.
    Just to check do a voltage check on the battery with the engine off and engine on, off it should be about 12.7v out of the battery and running it should pump out 14.1v from the alternator.
    If these are fine then it must be a short in the system either that or its the abs light on



  • @d1a93ec6b4=djmarcopolo:

    If these are fine then it must be a short in the system either that or its the abs light on

    Phew, sounds a lot better to me, and no, it isn't the ABS light, as when the battery failed completely last week, the ABS light came on, so I knew it was the end of the battery, it did give me a feel of what it would be like to have a huge turbo with enormous lag one day though, had my foot to the floor and it just pottered along until the electrics kicked back in and I shot off like a stabbed rat.

    I think the earthing kit has been done wrong so I'm gonna try each wire until the light goes off, as I've said before, I think the previous owner was an utter idiot and probably did it themselves with no knowledge.



  • sounds like it could be the fault. I did my own eathring kit and just ran heavy cables to the most electrically active parts of the engine and connected to the block, one to next to the starter motor, one to near the distributer and front bank spark plugs and another to the rear bank and that made a noticeable difference on starting and running



  • @915eae588c=djmarcopolo:

    sounds like it could be the fault. I did my own eathring kit and just ran heavy cables to the most electrically active parts of the engine and connected to the block, one to next to the starter motor, one to near the distributer and front bank spark plugs and another to the rear bank and that made a noticeable difference on starting and running

    I might just leave it, it's caused no harm and no mechanic has said anything about it and since I put the blue LED's in it, it looks pretty too :lol:



  • :(

    I was told to try this

    "start the car up and then disconnect the negative, if the car cuts out, the alternator is fooked"

    Guess what? It cut out, but I was dubious about this so fired the Pug up and did the same and it continued on without the negative attached, so I guess I'll be looking for a new alternator.

    This is quite a good tip to check if your alternator is knackered. So now it all depends on the price of getting this sorted. I am beginning to get sick of throwing money at this car now (well, for a while now! as you know) I need a new bracket for the licence plate lights (ordered a flexi led strip for now) and what looks like a new alternator, two front wings, front bumper, suspension bushes all round. I'm beginning to think I should really give up on old Jap cars and just save my money for something new.



  • This is a strange one now, the car cut out again this morning once I had given it it's usual 20 minute wake up in the yard, I then had to jump it using the Pug again and it was fine again. On my break at work I investigated and cleaned the terminals and doused the alternator in AC-90 (the car started up fine at 10am and again at 1pm and also at 3.30pm).

    I drove to the garage I use and he checked the alternator was giving out enough power and it came up with a perfect reading, he checked for any obvious wires and nothing.

    He suggested replacing the dizzy and if that doesn't help, work on from there, so I'm relieved in one way but confused (like my mechanic was) as to why it will start up first thing, run for 20 minutes and then after I have moved it won't start up, he could understand it with the old battery but not a fresh one. I think I need to get Bert a big fluffy blanket!


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