KP's MX Track Car aka 'Reddy'



  • NightStalker…will get pics on here tonight. As the car's red, they do stand out like a sore thumb at the mo, but see what you think.

    On aside, does anyone have any experience with rear strut braces? There's one at corksport http://www.corksport.com/corksport-rear-strut-bar.html and then some on eBay http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?LH_AvailTo=3&_nkw=mx-3+rear+strut&_trkparms=65%253A12%257C66%253A2%257C39%253A1%257C72%253A2471&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_sop=15&_sc=1#item27b1a0d4a5. Are there any major differences, with exception of about £40? 8)



  • A strut bar, strut brace, or strut tower brace (STB) is a mostly aftermarket car suspension accessory usually used in conjunction with MacPherson struts on monocoque or unibody chassis to provide extra stiffness between the strut towers.

    With a MacPherson strut suspension system where the spring and shock absorber are combined in the one suspension unit, the entire vertical suspension load is transmitted to the top of the vehicle's strut tower, unlike a double wishbone suspension where the spring and shock absorber may share the load separately. In general terms, a strut tower in a monocoque chassis is a reinforced portion of the inner wheel well and is not necessarily directly connected to the main chassis rails. For this reason there is inherent flex within the strut towers relative to the chassis rails.

    A strut bar is designed to reduce this strut tower flex by tying two parallel strut towers together. This transmits the load of each strut tower during cornering via tension and compression of the strut bar which shares the load between both towers and reduces chassis flex.

    Personally i will be fitting one on Wes as an addition to assist the rear loads on the towers..



  • Great description Rainy, thanks!! :D

    I was also just wondering if there were any differences between the ones found on eBay, and that on Corksport? Could save myself a few bob, but don't want to pick up something useless!



  • tbh i feel i would need to see both in the flesh before making a decision on performance when tested and quality of goods…thats just me,, im currently looking to source a rear brace but may look to get front and rear as a set for comestic reasons..



  • Fair enough. A front brace came with the car when I bought it, and now the rear seats are out I'm thinking I will need to stiffen it up.

    As always, cheers for the advice mate. :)



  • Removing the rear seat will now doubt create more flex between the towers as there no support from the rear bench…
    Have a look at this site for a good explantion on how flex and braces work...
    http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3performance/myths/Strutbar_Theory/strut_bar_theory.htm



  • Ok, so I've been really lax about keeping this up-to-date with my recent activities.

    I eventually went for the Corksport Rear Strut brace and it arrived looking all shiny and new :D (picture will be added later) so that's now on and ride has tightened up something chronic!! WOO HOO!! 8)

    I've also been busy spraying the car Satin Black. I haven't completely finished so won't post up any pics for the time being, but I'm going for the Porsche GT3 look…red spoiler, wing-mirrors and grille and black everywhere else. I'm also looking into getting a nice red decal for both sides to read "MX-3" rather than "GT3" which should look the nuts.

    Finally, after much deliberating (and cash organisation) I've planned out my upgrade route. It's as follows:

    Hopefully that will see me to my 'Ring trip in September, however afterwards I'd really like to try and commit myself to a date when I can do an engine swap. I've yet to contact Nippon (they seem like the "main" provider) as I know I'll just say, "yeah deliver me one in a fortnight" and that's bad!! :oops:

    More to come…



  • Just a query, but I spoke to Powerflow regarding the new exhaust and the guy said I should go for a 2 1/4" pipe rather than a 2.5". He said it should be good for up to 200bhp. That's fine…for now, but will it be restrictive if I put a ZE in? I don't want to upgrade and then have to upgrade again! :?

    Cheers all.



  • Go 2.5 for sure. Mine was done by Powerspeed.co.uk have a look at site they specialise in exhausts and manifolds and I trust all their knowledge over a powerflow fitter.



  • I'm on 2.25". I asked for 2.5" but was convinced down to 2.25". I'd go for 2.5", gives you head room for future mods. I'll be getting round this problem at some stage with an electric cutout on the decat pipe :)



  • Although i could have been put on 2.5 for the reason that i have a sports cat and rear silencer. Maybe if you went de cat youd have the same effect of flow on 2.25.



  • KLZE time!!

    So I've saved my beans and I'm finally going to go down the route many of you guys (and gals) have already taken. Before I order the engine from Nippon, is there anything extra I'm going to need? So far I'm getting:

    • 2.5 KLZE 8)
    • KL36 ECU
    • New Exedy Clutch for 2.5
    • All the bits from the donor 1.8

    I assume I can take things like the oil filter (only 4 days old), HT leads, distributor, JE50 VAF, and the rest from the 1.8?

    Finally, (and this is the big'un). Being fairly new-ish at this, is there anyone in the Essex area (notably Chelmsford) that has done a conversion and who can give me hand? I can't offer to pay much, but I can offer a mean bacon sarnie or two, and a case or two of your favourite brew! :wink:

    It won't be until mid-September anyway as it takes 4 weeks to arrive, but if there is anyone who's free, local and doesn't mind getting dirty for some free food and drink then let me know!

    Cheers everyone!



  • Awesome 8) Should be a beast with the KLZE in it!

    And I see in your sig that you've painted the car satin black, any pics of it? I was half thinking of satin for mine when it goes for a respray soon.



  • Sounds like you've got it all covered. Be careful
    with Nippon tho as a few have had probs. Get a pic or some part numbers to confirm it's a genuine ze.
    You might want to think about engine mounts. I've got mazdaspeed ones which I'm very happy with but are very pricey. Have a look at Marcos page he has awr mounts.
    Even tho it's expensive also lightweight flys are brilliant but depends on your budget. I'd say it's easier to do now while engine and box are out.
    I'm local in Kent. Know bits about the swap but don't have mechanical experience.!
    Your love the engine. It's a beut! :-)



  • @1f406e23a9=Ryan:

    Awesome 8) Should be a beast with the KLZE in it!

    And I see in your sig that you've painted the car satin black, any pics of it? I was half thinking of satin for mine when it goes for a respray soon.

    No pictures as of yet, but I'd definitely suggest it if you're thinking about respraying your own. It does look the bomb!! 8)

    @1f406e23a9=Garfy1981:

    Sounds like you've got it all covered. Be careful
    with Nippon tho as a few have had probs. Get a pic or some part numbers to confirm it's a genuine ze.
    You might want to think about engine mounts. I've got mazdaspeed ones which I'm very happy with but are very pricey. Have a look at Marcos page he has awr mounts.
    Even tho it's expensive also lightweight flys are brilliant but depends on your budget. I'd say it's easier to do now while engine and box are out.
    I'm local in Kent. Know bits about the swap but don't have mechanical experience.!
    Your love the engine. It's a beut! :-)

    Thanks Garfy for the insight. I think the flywheel is a little out of my reach at the moment, but the engine mounts seem like a good idea. Just taken a look at the ones on Corksport http://www.corksport.com/product-32511.html and they do seem a little pricey, especially when it'll be £90 shipping, and then added import tax on top of that. Where did you get yours from if you don't mind me asking?

    I might call on your expertise when it comes to it!! Some expertise is better than none! :lol:



  • The AWRs are fantastic! They tightened up my car so much. I thought, eugh what a boring mod, but makes such a difference… and my mounts were filled with windscreen poly too.

    Get the mx-3 rear:
    http://store.awrracing.com/products/Engine-Mount-%252d-626-MX%252d6-Probe-1993%252d1997-%252d-Front.html
    And the probe front (it actually fits better than the mx3 front):
    http://store.awrracing.com/products/Engine-Mount-%252d-MX%252d3-Rear.html

    Maybe you should try it without, then buy them, just so you know what a difference they make;)



  • Cheers Marco. Might just get them now as apparently mine are a bit worse for wear anyway!

    Can you tell me which Durometer do I need? 88's or 95's? They're soooooo much cheaper than the Mazdaspeed…result!! :P



  • I think I'm on 88s. The 95s will have a fair bit of engine vibration in the car, so depends if you like that!

    Also, so you know, the xmember holes for the front probe mount have to widened by a few mm. It's piss easy to do, and it means you get an even stronger mount. The mx-3 front from awr has fitment issues, so this is the best route, unless they've since revised it.



  • One thing I've seen are s/s exhaust headers…are these required for a ZE conversion, or will the stock headers on my 1.8 fit? I've seen these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-94-95-96-MAZDA-MX6-V6-STAINLESS-EXHAUST-HEADER-MX-6-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b009080bQQitemZ140392335371QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories on eBay and was wondering whether they're worth it?



  • i had stock 1.8 exhaust bolted to ze on a temporary basis. It dynoed at 146bhp!!. Once manifold was done, 2.5 inch piping, sports cat fitted car dynoed 188bhp. So that should answer your questions!!

    The prob is here, the manifold has a kind of pre-cat in it, which massively restricts flow.

    sorry to keep adding to your to buy list lol!!, modding aint cheap!!.
    Do it nice or do it twice!!!! :D …. has always been my moto!


 

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