DJMARCOPOLO'S - The GREEN RIVET
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this fault is very strange
have full water with new pump fitted with great flow, some oil is back in the engine and it runs and ticks over fine with no smoke just the rear bank the valves sound like they are banging the crap out of the rocker covers so there is definate valve or cam damage mainly in the middle cylinder
Our next guess now is maybe the oil pick up tube is blocked to the rear bank or the water jacket on the rear bank is blocked causing the damage to the rear, it kind of explains why there is no smoke and why it possibly seized until it cooled down, if its block oil tube that would explain why the oil was low as it was stuck up the top and my dad had the same thing n a skoda octavia last year that did almost the same
anyway new ZE on order and in post next week and waiting for better weather to start stripping this puppy down
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Would be nice to see what caused it DJ.
Glad to hear you have another ZE on the way!
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Good to hear things are slowly getting back on track, who's ze have you picked up ?.
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barrywhites :respect:
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Mmmmm :( V strange indeed!
Iirc on K series engines there is only a single pickup tube with a strainer on the end submerged in the sump, the crank driven oilpump 'sucks' oil through the strainer then as it passes through pump gears, positive pressure then pumps oil through the filter straight to the crank main bearings and 'big ends' and then on through drillings in the block/heads up to the 'hollow' cams via the drilled cam carrier bearings/brackets, suprisingly the HLA's are not fed oil via any drillings, they are cooled and fed oil via a small 'well' which they sit in which relys on the overflow oil from the cam carrier bearings to lubricate them?Youre probably spot on in saying a cam feed drilling (tube?) is blocked causing oil starvation and damage to cam components and hence 'CLATTER' but it would NOT cause 4 or so litres of oil to collect in cam covers as the draindown ports in there are Huuuuge! and a couple per bank? :shock:
Its the 'OIL VANISHING ACT' thats very strange and a worry :shock:
Has anyone fitted a mechanical oil pressure gauge to a K series?? my father swears by em on anything other than a standard engine!!! he says " its ok having a 'low pressure' light on ya dash, but if it comes on at 6000rpm, all it'll tell you is 'DAMAGE DONE'!!!! a gauge is a live veiw of whats occuring second by second".
He reckons "you get to know what the needle should be doing and if it displays any thing un-toward you 'may' get a second chance?"Hope youll get chance to do an autopsy on it dj ? and report your findings,
I for one would be interested in that
:)
Meanwhile hope ya replacement is a JOY :Dkev b.
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The mx6 guys used to always put oil pressure gauges in their motors as they weren't convinced that the mazda oil warning light kicks in quick enough to save the engine. Not sure how its all plumbed in tho.
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Ive seen 'unions' for sale on' E bay thats a 'T' piece affair off the oil filter/pressure sensor connection, I'd be a wee bit concered about the length and route of capillary tube from there to the gauge in the cabin tho? :shock: cant think of anywhere else to tie one in :o
kev b.
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@f3769ebe1f=djmarcopolo:
barrywhites :respect:
lol +1
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barrys old ZE arrived last night and im glad I buy up essential spares when they appear on here as I have most parts in stock .
when im back from my hols then itll be strip down to block, heads removed & skimmed, new seals everywhere, valves out and uprated DE springs fitted and toying with doing a complete refurb on the lower end including piston rings. then rebuild with all new cambelt kit and pump etc
also rocker covers and other engine parts will be stripped and off for painting plus a possible engine bay spray while its all apartthe 6 paddle stage 3 clutch from the old one will go in the new one and I might try and get the longer 5th gea in while its apart too, going to have 5 weeks doing it as its already booked in at USC for august 2nd :shock:
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Are you doing the rebuild yourself ?. I'm toying with the idea of a re build be will have to be a garage job as no time or space here.
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yes it will all be done by my dad and me, valves rings etc I havent really done before but the rest I can do myself
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Now that the holiday blues are over I spent last night stripping barries old ZE, hopefully it hasnt seized at any point as it doesnt appear to be head gasket blown anywhere but found the waterpump is screwed and leaks by just tipping the engine sideways its so screwed big time and all the belt tensioners are knackered on the cambelt and its been together for so long the bottom pulley is seized on and managed to sheer a bolt off in it using the fitted pullers and its still on there and doesnt even shift with a drift so thats another problem to sort.
Found 3 cylinders with water residue in them so really hoping the heads arent cracked otherwise I might be buying another engineBoth heads went off today for pressure testing and then skimming so hopefully back friday or monday if they pass the pressure test then stripped at home for the valves out and new seals and uprated DE springs all round
Then flip the bottom half of the engine over for a proper bath and respray, then try to get the bottom pulley off again and strip the sump off for new gasket and possibly just do the shells and maybe new set if rings if my bank account looks sweet this month.
Going out to strip the car this week ready for engine pull and get the rockers and inlet manifold off for spraying.
It will be engine out and the bay will be resprayed while we strip the old one of all its new gear that was full cam set fitted about 500 miles ago and other parts then rebuild the new engine possibly put in a new clutch kit while its all apart, change gearbox oil and hopefully back on road by end of July for USC and Trax
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@a1018cd1c8=Garfy1981:
The mx6 guys used to always put oil pressure gauges in their motors as they weren't convinced that the mazda oil warning light kicks in quick enough to save the engine. Not sure how its all plumbed in tho.
I would now agree with this having just replaced my rod barrings from being a quart low..
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need to find a how to
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Another dent in my wallet today after I got the heads back from pressure testing and a very gentle skim to clean the surfaces, plus they had a high pressure water treament to clean them up
tomorrow its valves out and new stem seals and the uprated DE springs I bought about 2 years ago from america to go in thn the top half is ready to go backThe company who do the skimming have a game they play where they guess the head manufacturer and today they were completely stumped as they have never had a set in at all - looks good for mazda engineering :)
usual suspects are rover and corsa 3 cylinder headsShiney Shiney
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those look pretty.
:bigok: :bigok:
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don't forget to reseat the valves while your doing the springs.
Bit of grinding paste and alot of elbow grease, takes forever. Seen guys using drills before, but i wouldn't. I just use the sucker stick and do it by hand.
Also easier to paint the heads while they are off. Deff worth doing.
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Thanks about the painting, have ordered paint and the valves I know about and will be doing al that, was thinking about getting a dremmel and sharpening all the air channels inside for better flow
Going to paint the engine bay too, I have ordered matt black so everything on the engine stands out a lot more and maybe get some green matched to the bodywork and fleck the matt black
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I used a drill at low speed to lap haha 24 valves in you'll understand :lol:
check out http://www.xtremethings.com/Trick_Tips.htm for porting
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thanks marco will take a trip to my local engineers for a price< its out of my depth for porting lol
