Rear brakes issue



  • @43af4feca8=jamesshack:

    FOR SALE

    brand new not even recieved yet set of crappy impulse purchase waste of money discs!

    Okay I get that they are basically gonna be binned after a few weeks of use cause i drive a damned far distance at high speed daily getting to work, suppose they'd be no issue if i used her as a shoppin trolley…..

    before i buy anythin else for my mx i am gonna be bugging u guys for whats best i think......

    **On the back it probably won't be such an issue. FWD cars have heavy front brake bias and, frankly, the rear discs are just for show. Sports cars with rear drums don't sell well :lol: If you're not shovelling a lot of heat through them, then there'll probably never be an issue.

    You also won't run into the problem of drilling through vanes - it's not a vented disc, so no problem.

    And since the problems are much more diminshed, at least you have lightweight rear discs :lol:**



  • Just to provide some balance to this…

    I've had my drilled and grooved discs on my daily driven ZE car since it was on the road. Same discs for just under 2 years so far. I've had no problems, no cracking, no premature fatigue, no stress cracks. All that plus the big brakes/twin pots from the xedos 9. I've seen one of them glow with heat when my wheel bearing failed and still fine. I bought them for looks and I got a good deal. However if I were to buy again I would buy solid, grooved or grooved and dimpled, because given the choice it's not worth the risk.



  • @e558373c04=Marco:

    Just to provide some balance to this…

    I've had my drilled and grooved discs on my daily driven ZE car since it was on the road. Same discs for just under 2 years so far. I've had no problems, no cracking, no premature fatigue, no stress cracks. All that plus the big brakes/twin pots from the xedos 9. I've seen one of them glow with heat when my wheel bearing failed and still fine. I bought them for looks and I got a good deal. However if I were to buy again I would buy solid, grooved or grooved and dimpled, because given the choice it's not worth the risk.

    I think cracking with cracking brake discs is a lot about the quality of the metal and manufacturing along with driving styles !!!

    OK back to the start, you have bought some drilled discs put them on try them no point buying some others and having them sat around or losing money on them, I doubt you are going to be heavy braking into a right hander from 120mph on the way to NETTO's because they have a special on imported chicken livers.
    Because to be honest anyone who reads this is now not going to buy your discs LOL.
    I am sure they will be fine as they are rears and wont get the punishment the fronts do, bang a new set of pads in and grease it all up or even invest in a pin kit that will replace all the parts that get worn on the calipers without buying new calipers then you have pretty much a new set of brakes



  • its all good, makin these mistakes is part of me getting the hang of getting this car healthly and happy again.

    many thanks for all your input



  • @880f00649f=djmarcopolo:

    Because to be honest anyone who reads this is now not going to buy your discs LOL.

    **Well, that's certainly true :lol:

    It's by no means certain that drilled discs = problems. There's just a lot more potential for problems to occur. You could easily get a normal disc from a shart batch accidentally made from plastic but, on the whole (no pun intended) normal/grooved/slotted > drilled.

    As they're on the back, the forces involved are significantly less, minimising your risk pretty much as far as it'll go. In all likelihood, the biggest problem you'll have is explaining why the backs are drilled and the fronts are not. You can say that they're lightweight, racing discs to minimise unsprung mass because the back doesn't need as much braking force. It'll fool most people who ask :D**



  • I spoke to the guy i bought them from and he has shipped them already so too late to change them to grooved….

    I figure i will fit them, and when they go I replace them hopefully without much damage to the rest of the hub, now could you tell me if the pin kits are car specific or can i get them from halfords os some place?



  • also…... the little spring magoo thingy were do i get them? or like get a really long paper clip :?



  • @4a1d076a6a=jamesshack:

    also…... the little spring magoo thingy were do i get them? or like get a really long paper clip :?

    The springs will come with your new brake pads usually, also there is no pin kit for the rear of these, they are quite basic at the back but you can get new bolt kit for them. If they come off ok then keep the originals, if they are a mare to remove then its worth changing them in case you have damaged them, you will have to get them from a motor factors or spares shop, halfords will only stock them if they come with a big sticker with "power force brake power fitted" in the pack

    Remember, put copper grease on the bolts you remove, the REAR of the pads (metal side) and on your wheel studs

    Here is also a link for the pin kit if you are putting new pads in the front, it will be the best £7.50 you have ever spent on your old brakes when you put in new pads
    http://www.fordprobestore.co.uk/store/product_info.php?products_id=754&osCsid=62731669fd84b5a224d91bd8b15a3605



  • and finally, a step by step idiots guide to the removal of the rear calipers, I have had a good look and i am a bit concerned that the small clips could break or bend out wrong…

    I know its a lot to ask but you guys seem to know your chicken livers..



  • The rears don't need removing. Undo the top bolt (12mm? I think) and hinge the caliper forwards. The pads will come out with some persuasion.



  • that seems so simple even i could do it and from rereading the responses the discs should just slide off?

    roll on the weekend will let you know how i get on….



  • @2d4c4f5b9c=jamesshack:

    that seems so simple even i could do it and from rereading the responses the discs should just slide off?

    roll on the weekend will let you know how i get on….

    To remove the rear caliper undo the 2 bolts that go through the black bits either side that you can see on the inside of the discs and then just let it hang no need to undo everything else and because the hubs have studs fitted the discs are held on with the wheel nuts



  • utter genius! so much thanks!!! :D :D :D



  • Couple of things:

    If you just bought them you have a 14 day cooling off period so send them back.

    When putting new pads on get a brake pad fitting kit, CES UK usually stock them only £5 think they deliver nation wide now. Its a right pain when old pad springs snap ( seen them get stuck and wreck a disk )

    Don't go mad with coppergrease and where gloves or use a brush as its not good for you through skin contact.



  • Again many thanks for all ur input :D



  • @a91cc6482c=nightstalker:

    Mine are exactly the same and I've known about them for ages, so with MOT time around the corner I have just ordered a new set of disks from ebay.

    Here's the link for the 1.8 versions ;)

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MAZDA-MX3-1-8-05-91-12-98-Brake-Discs-Rear-/250596022573?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a58afd92d

    Mine arrived today but dumbass only ordered ONE! :oops:



  • I cannot get the damned disc off!!!!!

    i have hit it heated it anyone know a good way of removing it? :(



  • so i finally changed my discs and pads, did'nt know about taking the caliper hanger off but its all lovely now apart from one thing….

    the handbrake now does'nt work....help?



  • Sounds like you may have left something disconnected or something may have come loose in the reinstallation process , think you may need to get underneath the car and check the handbrake lines..



  • done that alls fine was thinkin i may have wound the wotsit too far back when puttin the new pads in? what do u reckon?


 

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