Not sure which belt

  • @1458e4c27f=LeeRoy:

    ok, thanks…quite new to mazda engines.

    Is there any chance, for the thicko's like me, could you explain in a bit more detail please? or post the page from the haynes if you have it?

    I'm looking, and the belt i have has to go nearest the engine, and there is another belt blocking me getting it on.

    Online manuals download all yours!

    Dont worry about not knowing anything yet people on here are really friendly and will help you with anything, a year ago i didnt know anything really now i feel confident doing lots of stuff, just takes time.

  • thanks barry mate…just feel like a bit of a dunce...had a calibra before this with an ecotec engine...bloody think was terrible, i was under the bonnet nearly every week, but this has set me back a little.

    thanks for the link

  • was looking at these earlier but cant actually find the 'how-to' on replacing the belt.

    can you help?

  • yeh i know what your saying mate my first mx-3 was a bottomless money pit everymonth £200+, i managed to get it all fixed including a braking problem which went on for months, then got lucky with a part ex for my new one and touch wood so far its not had any problems bar minor things. Its good to get stuck in and learn your engine though.

  • Just had a quick look and it was in section B1-005 but however it does give a walk through guide, in think you will be lucky to find one sorry. At least it tells you what to do (kind of) you now just have to work out how to do it :(

  • @4f9664242c=LeeRoy:

    ok, thanks…quite new to mazda engines.

    Is there any chance, for the thicko's like me, could you explain in a bit more detail please? or post the page from the haynes if you have it?

    I'm looking, and the belt i have has to go nearest the engine, and there is another belt blocking me getting it on.

    **Same here. But I learned quite a bit about it doing the cambelt earlier in the month!

    Bearing in mind I'm talking mainly about V6 engines and yours is an i4, there'll be differences but since they're in the same bay without any significant alteration, it should be quite similar.

    Start off by jacking the front of the car up and putting it on stands (there's some lovely box section the exact width of axle stands underneath the car just for this purpose). Take off your driver's side wheel and the plastic splash guard on the driver's side (three or four 10mm hex bolts underneath the car, a few in the wheel well). Everything's still inaccessible, but slighty less so :lol:

    What you should have is a big-ass wheel in the middle of your engine block staring you in the face with these two belts on it. One will be on the outside and one will be on the inside. That's your crankshaft pulley (anything wheel that has a belt round any part of it is called a "pulley").

    The outside belt will probably go backwards and wrap itself round another quite big wheel - the power steering pump pulley - and a much smaller wheel. The small wheel is your friend here - this is the belt tensioner pulley and it does exactly what it sounds like it should. It tensions the belt.

    The inside belt will probably go forwards and wrap itself round another quite big wheel - the alternator/generator pulley - and a much smaller wheel. The same thing applies to this.

    Each of the belt tensioner pulleys is fixed in the centre by a 17mm hex bolt. You'll want to get a ratchet on them and just crack them. Don't take them right off, just crack them so they are no longer solidly in place. A quarter of a turn.

    Similarly, each of them also has an adjuster screw. In the V6 one of these points upwards and the other downwards, very helpfully. They're easy to spot, because they go up/down and are very long - they have two sets of screw threads on them. They have a 10mm hex bolt head. Get a ratchet on them and turn them to loosen (I can't remember if they go the opposite way to normal screws or not, but I think they do). You can tell if you're doing it right because loosening them is much easier :D You'll want to get about three full turns for each.

    The belts should both simply fall off in your hands at this point. Do them both - may as well, since one failed and they'd have both been replaced at the same time before. Plus you're already there. Take note of which way round the belts were installed - you should, from underneath, be able to read the writing on them the correct way round. Put the new belts on the same way.

    Now, slip the new inside belt into place. Using the 10mm adjuster, tighten the belt. Do as many turns to tighten as you did earlier to loosen. Then pick a long bit of belt between two pulleys and push it with your index finger. If the belt bends under your finger more than the length of your fingernail, tighten it some more - new belts require less "deflection" (more tension) than old ones. Get a ruler if you fancy measuring it properly - I think it's no more than 8mm deflection for a new belt on the 4-cylinder. Careful not to overtighten though, you want some deflection, not none. Once you're happy with the tension, get the 17mm socket out and tighten the bolt in the centre of the tensioner pulley again. You can do it properly to the correct torque specs if you have a torque wrench, but otherwise just tighten it to as much as you recall untightening it!

    The procedure is the same for the outer belt. Put on, tension, secure the pulley.

    Put the wheel back on (leave the splashguard for now), drop the car and fire it up. It'll chug a bit, maybe a very short squeak but, within 20s, it should all be back how you remember. If it squeaks a lot, the alternator belt isn't tensioned properly - make a note. Now go for a short drive with lots of sharp, slow corners. If the steering becomes heavy or squeaks, the PAS belt isn't tensioned properly - make a note.

    When you get home, if you need to fix squeaks simply crack the 17mm bolts again, add tension with the 10mm adjusters, tighten and try again. If you don't, put the splashguard back on and have a hot Bovril.

    This should, all in, take you 40 minutes if you've never seen this kind of crap before. And the next time you do it it'll take you ten minutes from having the car on the ground to having a Bovril.

    I can't provide you any pictures because both of mine are V6s, but, hopefully, the descriptions are enough for you to recognise everything.**

  • i've been out there 2 hours now…cant get any bolts to move!

    i've broken 2 spanners and probably a knuckle! cant get a socket to the one i need to slacken.

    Thanks for the in depth seems quite straight forward but damn! its driving me cuckoo!

    The outside belt that has 2 wheels...i'm trying to slacken the nuts so i can then loosen the adjuster, but they're stuck fast!

    Without this belt off, i cant get the inside belt on!

    bloody things! :roll:

  • this is what i'm working with.

    I'm on the P/S belt image at the mo, trying to move nuts A, B and C so I can adjust D to get the belt off. A, B, and C wont move at all! Workshop Manual/B1/B1-007.gif

  • **Okay, that is slightly different. Both on the V6 are more like the image at the bottom of that page.

    If they've not been off in a while, you'll probably want a breaker bar. I know mine were a little tricky with a 9" ratchet, but much more tractable with a 2 foot breaker. Accessibility is a PITA though.**

  • Breaker bar and torque wrench, also some good luck which i am wishing you now :D

  • thanks for all your help guys, i had to concede and take it to my mates garage…a princely price of 4 cans for helping me and i was back on the road!

    all who helped are stars!

  • I take it our beers are in the post :lol:

    P.s is your second name Jenkins by any chance?

  • Hope this emoticon code works… (B) (B) (B) (B)

    Beers!! :D :D :D

    No mate, my name is Lee...all my mates call me leeroy for a laugh.

    Its Lee Coates.

  • Beers failed…bugger!

  • Lol Epic fail :lol:

    Hmmm name sounds familiar prob just a coincidence!

  • I'm also on maybe you've seen my name pop up?


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