Thanks for reply edy I guess yours was done with the narrow width roll then?? lol :)
Cheers dj that's what I wanted to hear! :D
Will search for a more competent, willing and cheaper 'tinter' that doesn't scimp on 'roll widths' :lol:
Down side is, hatch glass was scratched by prev owners by 'rear wiper'? Iv'e deleted wiper now and plugged hole and tried to polish the 'arc' out but with little success :( think tinting will make scratches more apparent????? cant see em tho when it's mucky :o
drive shaft, the drivers side electric window off its runner, exhaust back box is wrecked, driving wise the gear box is a little tighter and sometimes can be a nuisance to stick it in 3rd, its not as responsive either.. it squeeks too but that might be the ball joint :/
Thats about a 2 long days work, 4 if your not sure what your doing.
Just swap the engine, gearbox, shafts and whichever lower arm you think the ball joint has gone on.
I wouldn't mess around, i'd just borrow / hire an engine hoist and get a couple of mates roped in. With this kind of job its important to get it done quickly.
Havent got time to step it all out but here is some...
... Basic Practical advice Advice:
remove the battery first.
then drain engine oil, water and gearbox oil before you start.
always use axle stands. You can hire them, borrow or buy. you need 2, make sure you work on level ground if you can, put the handbrake on hard, chock the back wheels front and back so there is no way in can move.
when working on the good body car put protective sheets,blankets over the wings/bumper so you don't damage the good body.
work on removing stuff from the good engine first, so you do a better job of removing the bad engine as you've had practice. This way you won't break important plugs, clips on the car with the good body as you will be re-using them.
as you remove the engine wires from the car with the good body, label them well using masking tape so you know where they go.
undo all hoses that join the engine to the car so that the only thing going between the engine and the car is the engine and gearbox mounts.
then undo the gearbox mounts so only the two engine mounts are holding it in.
removing the radiator helps too for added clearance.
get both cars to this stage
get a wooden pallet
now you can hire the engine hoist just for one day. lift the engine and gearbox you don't want out and on to the pallet (they are heavy so put it somewhere your not going to have to move it again, and preferably somewhere there is room to get a pallet truck in, incase you sell it and the delivery guy can get at it).
then lift the good engine and gearbox out of one car and in to the other in one go.
It can help to remove the axel stands and drop the front of the car down on a jack when using the hoist, with a couple of mates steadying the engine as you hoist so it does not hit anything.
old wagon straps are great to use with the hoist, tie one to each of the lifting eyes on the engine and then wrap one all the way round the gearbox once then up to the hoist (not just under it, allthe way round then back up). this will resist the engine from twisting or tilting, it makes it much more stable.
When you start hoisting the engine, go slowly and keep checking to make sure you have unplugged everything from the engine. ( I normally miss at least one hose or wire)
a full roll of cling film over the engine on the pallet will keep it in good condition, then a couple of those larger bin liners over the top.